When I saw this by the roadside in Izu, I thought, “Gee, that’s a kinda fastidiously sculptural, and large, piece of topiary for a roadside in the Middle of Nowhere. Those Japanese really do like sculpting their plants.”

Just saw an ad for Taiwan Tourism showing women picking tea in the fields. It’s almost certainly a tea plantation! Case dismissed.

I don’t know how popular Izu is today, but very little of the tourist infrastructure looks built in the last 20 years, suggesting its popularity is waning. Along the coast, hulking slabs of 1960s hotel loom from the cliff faces. The style is part 1960s Austrian bath-cure resort, part Honolulu coast, and all Japan. Their rhythmic edifices remind me a bit of honeycomb – the same hotel room, 300 or 400 times. Many are in disrepair, some seemingly in disuse.

I drove along a toll road called the Skyline, which may win the prize for the worst signposted tourist road in the world. It is extremely popular with groups of motorcycle enthusiasts, but that’s about it. The route is winding, scenic and green.

Along the road, abandoned tourist pavilions sit derelict, weeds bulging through the cracks in the concrete. Decrepit third-rate restaurants crank out a meagre trade on passing desperation. I suspect the dilapidated golden-era tourist infrastructure speaks of a day when people still aspired to have holidays near home and foreign travel was not entirely democratic.

I stayed at a minshuku in Shimoda. Minshuku are B&Bs, Japanese style, except you usually have the evening meal too. In this case, an elaborate, delicious ten course banquet that I felt embarrassed for not being able to eat more of. There are only 10 guestrooms and they are traditional Japanese style with tatami and futons. The minshuku is a little dated, and is not glamorous, but it is comfortable and absolutely spotless.

The hospitality is generous and warmhearted. The Japanese word for hospitality is omotenashi which is very different from what people mean in the West when they say “I work in hospitality.” Working in hospitality is a sprinkling of customer service jargon over self-hatred and boredom. Omotenashi is commitment to, and pride in, your unfailing attention to the needs of the guest. If you get a chance to stay at a minshuku I would recommend it.
At night I went to the onsen of the Kanaya ryokan, also in Shimoda. It is a super-traditional wooden building with a simple large open wooden bath (possibly hinoki) and a rotenburo (open air bath.) A delightfully authentic experience. It is not far from Daitenji station.

Shimoda itself is a tourist oddity, highly recommended if standing on the place where milk was first drunk by humans in Japan is your idea of a good time. There is a strip of historic houses preserved by the canal which is quaint. I suspect there is a nice beach around but it was cold and miserable at the time so I didn’t get down there.

To start with, Tokyo is certainly not a homogenous density. Typically, as you move away from a subway station, things become less dense. As well, as in any city, things naturally become less dense as you move out from the centre. The proviso in Tokyo being, that Tokyo itself has more than one centre, and that the Greater Tokyo Metropolitan Area is a knit-up of several other “suburbs”, some of them the size of large cities in themselves, such as Yokohama, Chiba, etc. (All in all, the Greater Tokyo Metropolitan Area has about 31 million people in it, depending on how you count.) And while on the “front street”, most areas in Tokyo can be seen to specialise in one kind of thing (say computers, or books, or offices, or restaurants), often when you start poking around in the backstreets the story starts unravelling. Amongst expensive shops and skyscrapers, you can wander down a laneway and find dishevelled and dilapidated single-dwelling or single-business buildings.

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Above: Shibuya. Note the variation in density.

I don’t know how this works out, but my guess is that some properties remain within the family for generations, and stay undeveloped. So there are no rules that apply. Expect the unexpected. This is the beauty.

For sensory overload, the Shibuya crossing , although a tourist commonplace, is a good start. At many times Shinjuku Station is so full of people that you feel like you are part of some kind of human fluid. Ginza and Marunouchi are less chaotic versions of Tokyo. Genteel orderly and gentrified.

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Above: Ginza.

Another “orderly” version of Tokyo comes in the relatively new mixed-use developments, Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown. These are urban renewal projects that and perhaps point out some dissatisfaction amongst the Japanese about the chaotic and frenetic nature of Tokyo. These monolithic, highly planned mini-cities carve out space and order in Tokyo’s heart while eschewing the kind of by-ways and texture that perhaps are some of the most interesting features of the Tokyo streetscape. Still, an interesting exercise. Also, Roppongi Hills has a viewing platform for panoramic views over Tokyo.

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Above: Roppongi Hills.

If back streets are for you, Urahara, the name given to the backstreets of Harajuku behind Omotesando, is crammed full of shops to explore. For a less retail back-street amble, I found the back streets of Kagurazaka interesting for their tiny bolt-hole restaurants and clubs.

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Above: Kagurazaka. Note how much smaller the buildings are! This is very “old town” Tokyo.

Pretty much anywhere in Tokyo is a good place to get lost, especially if you have a Tokyo City Atlas to get you out of trouble. Picking a suburb at random and exploring it is a very rewarding pastime in Tokyo. Chichi neighbourhoods like Daikanyama, just a stop from Shibuya but somehow a world away, can be fun for this purpose.

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Above: Daikanyama.

Odaiba is a place to go if you are interested in Tokyo’s urban fabric. Much of the area was reclaimed and developed during the “bubble economy”, and so there are some spectacularly excessive examples of over-architecture including the Tokyo Big Sight and the Fuji Terebi building. There’s also some fairly generic malls, not so the hilariously ersatz Venus Fort, which does look like a shoebox from the outside, but it is an all-out period Venetian fantasy on the inside. The other nice thing about Odaiba (which is really only worth visiting for a couple of hours) is that it is one of the few places in Tokyo where you can actually look back on the city and get some sense of perspective. (Tokyo is so cluttered that it is often difficult to visually orientate oneself according to landmarks. It’s also sometimes difficult to grasp how the city “fits together”, which explains why I only managed to work out how Shibuya and Harajuku were connected on my most recent trip. This sensation is heightened by the usefulness of the metro system — one grows used to orientating oneself in relation to the station, but not seeing the streetscapes as an interconnected whole.)

Specific buildings? What’s mentioned above, also Prada’s Aoyama store, Tod’s Aoyama store, Tokyo International Forum, olympic venues near Harajuku stn… heck I’m lazy, but look up the website of your favorite Japanese architect and go visit.

*enough*

Firstly, I personally think that Tokyo itself is quite disappointing for historic structures. I know a lot of tourists go to the temples at Asakusa; I personally found them very underwhelming. Meiji-jingu has wonderful grounds, and the shrine itself has a certain simple and spacious majesty. Yasukuni Shrine, which former Japanese Prime Minister Koizumi caused controversy by frequently visiting, is a similarly austere structure, perhaps even more so. The War Museum at Yasukuni is very interesting. None of these structures is particularly old.

Definitely, Kyoto is a great place to go to experience ye olde Japanese gardens, temples, shrines, palaces, etc. Most of it is pretty obvious from the guidebook. Ryoanji is definitely worth a visit, but if you want to get a little bit off the beaten track, try Daitokuji – a compound containing five or six different temples, each with its own traditional Japanese rock garden. I enjoyed this very much.

The Japanese do very nice small gardens, and even some fantastic ornamental big gardens, but they really don’t do parks all that well. Hibiya Park and Ueno Park should be missed by anyone on a schedule, except for Ueno Park in Spring when it is a riot of sakura (Cherry blossom). Probably the best place to see sakura en masse.

Nikko, a couple of hours out of Tokyo by train, is worth the trouble if you have some time. It has a spectacular collection of shrines and temples, which include the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, an important shogun. The style of this precinct is somewhat more flamboyant, even Chinese, compared to some of the more restrained, Japanese-style things to be found in Kyoto. If you are going to Nikko, you may as well take advantage of some of the hot springs (onsen) which are famous in the region.

Kamakura is a coastal town within easy striking distance of Tokyo. It has a long and rich history, including a brief period as the de facto capital of Japan. I believe the beach is quite nice by Japanese standards. The Daibutsu (Big Buddha) is certainly big. I went to Kamakura on my very first trip to Japan, so my memory is quite hazy, but I seem to recall it is worth the visit. For atmosphere, Tsukui okonomiyaki restaurant , found at the end of a laneway, with its centuries-old garden, is pretty special. It is cook-your-own, though.

Hakone is a great favourite of Japanese people, and often mentioned in the guidebooks. As far as I can make out, its principal attraction is that Mount Fuji is in the background. That doesn’t make up for the tourist doggerel and boredom that is in the foreground. Avoid, unless you absolutely 100% guaranteed of a perfectly clear day.

Lastly for somewhere I have never been. Izu Peninsula (Izuhantou) is supposed to be lovely, and one of the best places within striking distance of Tokyo to get close to nature.

Tonkatsu. Tonkatsu is pork fillet crumbed in special Japanese crumbs. It is delicious, and often not done particularly well outside Japan, owing to the particular quality of pork that is needed. In Ginza, the wonderfully under-priced Tonki Tonkatsu is a gem. Don’t worry about the decor, just worry about the quality yummy tonkatsu. Located at B1F (basement) Ginza 6-5-15. You want a more elaborate tonkatsu experience? Last time I was in Tokyo I went to a somewhat confusing establishment in Roppongi Hills offering multiple condiments and different grades of pork… luckily I had some Japanese people with me who explained how it was supposed to be eaten, it was it all a little bit frighteningly ceremonial looking. But don’t let me put you off. It’s called Katsukura and it’s in the Roppongi Hills complex. (As an aside, Roppongi Hills and Roppongi Midtown are certainly worth a look. These are multipurpose developments featuring shopping, dining, office space, apartments and hotels. They are an interesting example of how Japan is “making new” in its incredibly crowded environs.)

Yakitori Alley. I know this is a ubiquitous tourist recommendation, but I can’t resist for its shitamachi (old-town) flavour and yummy yummy yakitori. Make sure you try nankotsu (cartilage) and hifu (chicken skin). It’s somewhere up against Shinjuku Station, I can’t remember exactly where but it is in all the guide books.

Department Store upper-story eateries. I mention these in my previous post but I may as well be more specific. In many department stores, hotels, and mixed use developments, there are higher-class restaurants on the upper floors. Typically, someone at ground level (often near the lifts) there is an illuminated sign with pictures of the restaurants cuisine and sometimes ambience and a level designation. Some examples: Matsuya in Ginza has some restaurants on its ?sixth floor, and in Shibuya, Seibu has some less-pricey places, and in Shinjuku, Lumine has Meshimase and Takashimaya has some pretty exy looking estabs.

I should also point out reviews I’ve made before, a Buddhist vegetarian restaurant in the middle of nowhere, which you are as likely to get lost finding as to actually find, and Chanoma, quite easy to get to near Naka-meguro station. It’s a delight, you MUST eat the yuzu sorbet, if you don’t walk past it. It’s in the most non-descript building EVER on the sixth floor. Kami-Meguro 1-22-4 6F. And Tight bar in Shibuya (1-25-10), behind the tracks, is crazy small.

One more for the avoid list: the New York Bar and Grill at the Tokyo Park Hyatt. Yeah, Scarlett Johannsen’s been there, but in all honesty, this is the most over-rated restaurant on the planet.

• cheap but good food
• dense city lifestyle
• temples/shrines
• beautiful gardens
• perhaps some nice scenic coasts
• stunning architecture – old and new
• shopping

So here’s my recommendations. One a day, starting with…

CHEAP BUT GOOD FOOD

Much contrary to its reputation as an expensive country, Japan can be a relatively inexpensive place to eat. Ramen shops are cheap and plentiful, while most sushi restaurants are at least good, and often less than a third of the price of home. Izakayas (Japanese pubs) are much underestimated, I suspect, by foreigners, and an interesting experience. There are many chains of izakaya (such as WaraWara) in Japan which serve a unique and tasty kind of cuisine designed for sharing, and more to the point, consumption with beer. I also quite like yoshoku restaurants, which don’t often get copied in the West. They feature Japanese adaptations of Western cuisine, such as omuraisu (an omelette stuffed with savoury rice) and intriguing Japanese variations on Italian spaghetti themes.

Some specific recommendations.

For sushi, the big sushi train on Omotesando more or less opposite Omotesando Hills (from memory) may look like a tourist trap but is actually quite high-quality. Also in Shibuya station, down the West End, there is a sushi restaurant that perennially has a very long line in front of it. This is a reasonably reliable sign anywhere in Japan that something is very good.

For ramen, I like Fukurou Ramen （ラメン梟）(Ginza 2-10, on Maronnier Dori) is killer. Try their akamiso tonkotsu ramen. You might need them to help you with the ticket machine (at a lot of smaller food shops in Japan, you buy a ticket from the machine and present it to the cheffing staff. Not quite sure why.)

For okonomiyaki, try Shichifukujin (七福神）in Shibuya. If you want to know where it is, type “okonomiyaki shibuya” into Google and it is the first thing that comes up.

For yoshoku, Shiseido Parlour in Ginza is supposed to be good, then there is also Renga-tei (Ginza 3-5-16) which is where omuraisu began, it is actually not the tastiest I have ever had, but it is interesting for unrenovated nostalgia.

For tempura, you could go high-class, or you could go to Tendon Tenya（天丼）, a fairly ubiquitous chain of tempura restaurants which also has a more glitzy number in Ginza (more swishy than its other stores) at Ginza 3-7 or 3-8, again on Maronnier Dori if I’m not mistaken.

Perhaps more important is what to avoid. Western food (and Chinese food too, actually) can be a hit and miss affair in Japan, unless you know where you’re going, it can often be a better bet to stick to the Japanese style. That having been said, Yoshinori is a chain of restaurants you see everywhere of fairly questionable culinary quality, maybe skip them. Same for the local burger chains Rotteria and Mos Burger… I think you might need to be Japanese to fully appreciate them. Don’t eat in places where no-one else is.

If you are looking to go a little upmarket, most department stores have a collection of restaurants on an upper floor and these tend to be a higher standard of decor and food, and a commensurately higher price point. Beware some of these restaurants are very expensive.

And if you want to go right down market, then there is always the convenience store, which often has a surprisingly large collection of varied foods that they will be only too happy to heat up in the microwave if you say something like “atatamete kudasai” and look dumb and foreign…

Lastly, good coffee. Motoya Coffee is wonderful, see their website for locations using Google Maps. Dean and Deluca also have branches in Shibuya, Marunouchi, Roppongi and Shinagawa which serve good coffee. Tokyo-style coffee comes in tins and bottles from vending machines. Pay attention to the red and blue stripes below the item: this determines whether your beverage arrives hot or cold!